In Geneva, Jacob & Co. showcases the new Billionaire Timeless Treasure Yellow Diamond watch set with 425 Asscher-cut fancy and Intense yellow diamonds weighing almost 217 carats.
On March 27 in Geneva, concurrent with the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 exhibition, Jacob & Co. unveiled its $20 million Billionaire Timeless Treasure Yellow Diamond watch that is a complex tourbillon timepiece totally ensconced in 425 Asscher-Cut Fancy Yellow and Intense Yellow diamonds. The feat of simply collecting and cutting all of the highest colour and quality of matching diamonds alone took three and a half years.
This is not the first Billionaire watch the brand has built. In fact, in 2015 it released its first Billionaire watch bedecked with 260 carats of white diamonds. Three years later, in 2018, Floyd Mayweather bought a Billionaire watch (only 21 have been made since 2015, with all of them selling except for one) for $18 million.
The brand then unveiled, also in 2018, its $6 million yellow diamond Millionaire watch with 127 carats of intense yellow diamonds. But that wasn’t enough for this independently owned and operated jewellery and watch brand. They needed to take each of those renditions to new heights.
When it was determined that the brand would move forward with this timepiece, ten top-notch gemologists scoured the Earth for enough perfectly matched rare diamonds. In the end, the brand purchased 880 carats of rough yellow diamonds and had them cut over the course of several years into what would end up being individual Asscher-cut stones weighing 216.89 carats total. Just the studying of the rough diamonds and the cutting and polishing took thousands of hours.
The Asscher Cut, invented during the Art Deco era, is a square diamond with clipped or angled corners that offers a nice open view into the stone. The Asscher Cut diamonds on this watch boast 57 facets on the edges and the crown sits higher, so more rough stone is needed than for, say, a brilliant-cut stone. As such, there was more diamond-waste to creating the Asscher Cuts, according to the brand.
Yellow diamonds occur in earth about once in every 10,000 diamonds – making them one of the rarest colours in the world. Finding enough in large sizes was a challenge. According to Seraina Wicht, head of gemology watch production at Jacob & Co., “For the Billionaire Timeless Treasure, we were receiving stones one by one, two by two, three at the most. It happened several times that we spent several weeks without receiving a single one that was worthy of the piece.”
Once the diamonds were all perfectly cut and matched, 15 of the finest gem setters spent months and months preparing the yellow gold that would serve as the case and bracelet—turning to a lattice-like bracelet motif. Because the stones were of minutely different sizes, each stone had to be measured and each gold prong carved exactly to accept the stone.
Because larger stones were needed for the case—46 of them exactly, weighing 55.15 carats, the brand turned to equally as large stones for the first links of the 159-carat bracelet—where the bracelet meets the case. They then gradually decline in size as they reach the clasp—simply because finding hundreds of larger sized stones was nearly impossible.
The 76 gems immediately surrounding the movement, on the inner flange are 3,59 carats of kite-cut and emerald-cut green tsavorites that are cut longer and thinner in order to fit into the inner ring between the case and the movement. As if that isn’t enough, the tourbillon escapement of the JCAM39 skeletonized movement is further set with 57 yellow baguette-cut diamonds.
Beating at the heart of this unique piece is the manual-wind JCAM39 skeletonized movement with 167 parts and offering 72 hours of power reserve. It displays hours, minutes and a one-minute tourbillon. The 18-karat yellow gold case measures 52.2 x 43.5 mm in size and features a sapphire crystal dial and case back for viewing the movement.
This article was first published on forbes.com and all figures are in $USD.